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Pump Works


Serving: Dayton, Walla Walla, and the Tri-Cities


We have 35 years’ experience in pump sales and service.


We are Washington State L&I 03 licensed pump installers. We keep in stock submersible pumps and motors up to 5HP and jet pumps up to 2hp. We have in stock all pump accessories control boxes, pressure tanks, switches, valves everything needed for most pump repairs. 

We have two solar pumps available Grundfos and Lorentz. We are able to pump water to the surface form 1500 feet.

Tank Pre-Charge FAQ


Setting the pressure tank pre-charge is the only one and most important annual pump maintenance the pump owner needs to do. When the pump comes on in a normal on/off pumping cycle it should run for about one minute before going off. If the pump is running for a long period of time, for example watering a lawn, it is best to have the pump run as long as possible. Too many starts in a 24-hour period is hard on the motor, control box, and pressure switch. If you start having control box capacitor or pressure switch problems, it’s time to check the tank or use more water to prevent cycling. Pumps running continues for hours, days or weeks will not wear out the pump.


An inexpensive way to stop cycling is to install a cycle stop valve. The cycle stop valve can be at the pressure tank as long it is before any tributary in the main water line from the well or else it needs to be installed at the well. If you are interested in a cycle stop valve or would like more information, please call 509-382-4159. 

The tank pre-charge is the air pressure in the pressure tank and can be checked at the top of the tank with a regular tire gauge.

  1. Know the operating pressures of the pressure switch, typically 30/50 or 40/50. This information is inside the pressure switch cap. The location of the pressure switch is usually at the bottom of the tank plumbed into the water pipe or tank tee, (The pressure switch will have wires going up to the pump control box). Cycle the pump and watch the gauge and take note at what pressure the pump comes on and off at. It is common that the gauge will not be working and will need to be replaced. Also, this pressure may not be the same as the pressures inside the cap. This is no big deal but if you want, adjusting instructions are inside the cap as well.

  2. Now that we know the start pressure shut off the power to the pump at the breaker panel or a disconnect switch.

  3. Drain off all the water until the gauge is at zero. 

  4. With the tire gauge check the air pressure at the top of the tank.

  5. The pre-charge will need to be set at 2PSI under the start pressure. A way to look at this is when the pump comes on there will be 2PSI of water still in the tank.  

  6. With an air compressor apply air to the tank if it needs it or release air if there is too much air. Example a start at 30 PSI = 28 PSI per-charge, 40 PSI = 38PSI pre-charge

  7. THE BAD NEWS after you put air in the tank, try to shake it, it should be light and not have any water in it. While you are putting air in the tank and you hear air bubbling in the tank or out of the pipe you need to replace the tank. Remember the tank should be light with no water sloshing in the tank.


To check the pre-charge for a VFD (constant pressure pump) pump system, set the tank air pressure to 70% of the running pressure.


Example pump runs at 60PSI x.7 = 42PSI air in the tank. If you have any questions please call.

Contact us for any of your water needs!
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